Spanska amforor som kallas tinajas har tagit över från barriques vid Elisabetta Foradoris vingård i Trentino
- Höjdpunkter
- Långlästa vinartiklar
- Tidskrift: Utgåva i maj 2018
Simon Woolf undersöker rapporter om en kontrarevolution i italienska vinkällare ...
Det finns ett kort men dramatiskt ögonblick i Paolo Casalis film från 2014 Barolo Boys: Story of a Revolution när vinmakaren Elio Altare tar en motorsåg till en imponerande rad botti (traditionella stora ekfat) som står i familjens källare.
Hans rituella förstörelse av dessa vördnadsfulla fartyg, som antogs 1983, hade ett praktiskt syfte - att skapa plats för nyinköpta, mindre franska ekbarriques. Men den kraftfulla symboliken var tydlig - den förment feta, förfallna botti representerade den gamla ordningen. Linjer av perfekta, nyligen samarbetade barriques skickade ut ett tydligt budskap om modernitet och stil.
Rulla ner för att se Woolfs urval av italienska viner gjorda utan ek
Det som verkade banbrytande 1983 hade blivit de rigueur för prestigefyllda italienska vingårdar i slutet av 1990-talet. Men på senare tid har barrikens avgörande ekekärlek fallit i favör, från Friuli i nordost till Sicilien i söder och alla punkter däremellan.
Italiens vinmakare växer alltmer till alternativa material och fartyg för jäsning och åldrande, allt från böjligt till direkt.
Där barriker en gång stod, kan det nu finnas amforor, georgiska qvevris, betongägg eller stora akaciafat. Är detta bara det cykliska grindet av modets löpband, eller en del av en mer avgörande rörelse mot större äkthet och uttryck?
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Woolfs smakanteckningar och poäng för ett urval av italienska viner gjorda utan ek:
Intressanta Artiklar
