Klassificeringssystemet i Bourgogne- Winestealssd.com

Bourgogns hierarki går tillbaka så långt som Bordeaux, men baseras på benämning snarare än producent. Benjamin Lewin MW undersöker om klassificering efter terroir står för tidens test

toniga dagar i våra liv

Två händelser 1855 skapade kontrasterande stilar för rankning av vin, och deras konsekvenser har återkommit sedan dess. Den mest kända är klassificeringen av Médocs viner: klassificeringen från 1855 dominerar inte bara fortfarande Vänsterbankens viner, utan gjorde klassificering efter pris till modell för alla Bordeaux-viner.

Det är mindre välkänt att Lavalle samma år publicerade sin Plan Topographique of Burgundy's Côte d'Or, en detaljerad karta över varje vingård från Santenay till Dijon, som klassificerade dem Tête de Cuvée, Première, Deuxième och till och med Troisième Cuvée.

Detta var grunden för att kartlägga Côte d'Or till mer än 400 appellationer när appellation contrôléesystemet infördes 1936. Idag har varje vingård i Bourgogne sin plats i en hierarki som går ner från grand cru, till premier cru, till byvin , ner till generiska Bourgogne.

Varken klassificeringen var avsedd som en annan än en samtida beskrivning av status quo, men båda blev i sten. Sedan 1855 har Bordeaux klassificerats efter pris, medan Bourgogne har klassificerats av terroir. I min titt på Bordeaux (Decanter, januari 2010), åldras inte efter pris i mer än ett decennium. Så hur står klassificeringen efter terroir över århundradena?

Prisutveckling

All klassificering börjar med pris. Den första klassificeringen i Bourgogne baserades på genomsnittspriset som vin från varje område hämtade på 1800-talet. Viner såldes vid den tiden av négociants med liten uppmärksamhet åt enskilda producenter, och priserna baserades på områden som definierades bredare än idag.

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